Presentation: Heathers
On May 5, 2015, Elaine Scott spoke on behalf of the Vancouver Island Heather Society. She suggested ways to use heathers in your garden and discuss different genus and species that grow well in this area, and how to mix and match them to good effect. Elaine provided tips on planting and maintaining heathers, and selecting other plants to add interest to a heather garden.
Workshop: Orchids
Geoff Harwood from the Orchid Society discussed orchids and their growing habits, as well as care, re-potting and coaxing into bloom.
Notes:
HEATHERS:
Presenter: Elaine Scott, Master Gardener and member, Vancouver Island Heather Society. The Vancouver Island Heather Society meets monthly in the Cowichan Valley and holds a plant sale on the last Saturday of March in Cobble Hill. www.bcheathersociety.org
THREE MAIN TYPES OF HEATHER: CALLUNA (Scotch heather), DABOECIA (Irish heath), ERICA (heath & winter heath).
BENEFITS OF HEATHER Deer don’t eat them; rabbits only nibble. Use heaths and heathers as mass plantings, rock garden accents, and slope covers. The many varieties provide color all year long and attract bees, butterflies and birds. Companion Plants: BERBERIS ‘Royal Burgundy’, conifers including CRYPTOMERIA japonica ‘Elegans’, CORDYLINE australis (dracaena), DAPHNE tangutica, grasses including STIPA and MISCANTHUS, RHODODENDRON, York Rose.
CULTURE: Moist but well drained acid soil in 4 to 6 hours of sun. Plants are not drought tolerant, and not successful in xeriscapes. (note: Xeriscaping (often incorrectly spelled zero-scaping or xeroscaping) is landscaping and gardening that reduces or eliminates the need for supplemental water from irrigation.)
PLANTING: Plant in Fall when seasonal rains keep stock moist until well established. Consider mature plant sizes to avoid overcrowding. Soak stock well before planting; make root balls even with surrounding soil. Add compost and bone meal to planting holes. New heather gardens look sparse but in 3 years offer full coverage.
PRUNING: ERICA do not need pruning. Prune DABOECIA & CALLUNA after flowering in September, or trim in early Spring. Use hedge trimmers on CALLUNA, cutting below old buds.
FERTILIZING: These genera need little fertilizer. Apply light sprinklings of rhodo food if necessary. Do not use manures.
PROPAGATING: Layering or cuttings both work well to produce new plants.
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ORCHIDS:
Keen about orchids? Join the Victoria Orchid Society which meets 4th Tuesday of the month September to June at Garth Homer Centre. The 2014 September meeting is moved to the 4th Monday at Gordon Head United Church, 4201 Tyndall Avenue.
Presenter: Dr. Geoff Haywood, biology instructor at Camosun College.
Orchids in local stores are mainly PHALAENOPSIS, the easiest genus to grow indoors. Bred for large flowers, plants have lost the scent of original smaller forms. Provide the right moisture, light, humidity and temperature conditions for success.
WATER: Keep damp—not wet—and never let dry out. Water weekly or when pots feel light. Soak pots from top or bottom and drain well. Do not leave sitting in water.
FERTILIZER: every third week using a very weak solution of 20-20-20. Follow package directions divided by 4.
HUMIDITY: Orchids thrive in humid conditions (50% +). Indoors use mini-greenhouses/ terraria or place pots on pebbles in trays filled with water.
TEMPERATURE: Average night temperature of 18.3C (65F) degrees and day temperatures of 21.1C to 26.6C (70-80F) are best. Higher day temperatures encourage faster growth but must be balanced with higher humidity.
LIGHT: Orchids are happiest in indirect light; general rule: if foliage is dark site is too shady; if yellow, site is too bright.
BLOOMING: To encourage orchids to re-bloom provide cooler temperatures at night (12.8C/55F) for a few weeks in Fall. If an orchid absolutely refuses to bloom, place outside at night for 3 weeks in the Fall but make sure it does not freeze. Happy plants will not bloom, so stress them a little.
PESTS: Orchids are susceptible to spider mites, thrips and/or mealy bugs. A spray of 1 part Murphy oil soap, 1 part water, and 1 part rubbing alcohol works well. After blooming, cut blossom stems off at the bottom using secateurs cleaned in rubbing alcohol. Ignore instructions that come with plants to cut below last flower bud.
GROWING MEDIUM: 4 parts fir bark, 1 part medium charcoal, 1 part horticultural perlite
TRANSPLANTING: Grow in clear pots so roots are visible. Roots are covered in a spongy, foam-like covering. If roots are green they are healthy. Remove dead roots, and use same size pot or smaller, depending on how many roots are removed. Place a layer of moist, not wet, sphagnum moss in the bottom (pre-soak & squeeze), then add potting mix and top with moss.
Thanks to Sandra McConnell for creating these notes.